Maison MUMM, The PAIRING QUEST : EPISODE 1 WITH CHEF STEPHANIE WONG
Maison Mumm introduces the Pairing Quest, which matches an up-and-coming chef with a menu from the Mumm archives. Drawing on the House’s long tradition of working with innovative cooks and iconic restaurants, each Pairing Quest presents a chef with the challenge of reinterpreting a historic Mumm menu by giving it a personal twist.
The Menu
A pioneer of Nouvelle Cuisine, Bocuse was one of the giants of modern French gastronomy who revolutionized French haute cuisine. This unique collaboration is a tribute to Bocuse, his love for Mumm champagne and his friendship with the House that spanned many decades.
The Chef
Stephanie Wong is the Executive Chef and Founder of Roots in Hong Kong. After spending nine years as a banker working for HSBC, Stephanie quit the finance industry in 2015 so that she could pursue her culinary dream.
She went to study in Paris, where she received her Culinary Arts Diploma from the world-renowned Alain Ducasse Centre de Formation in 2016. She then worked in the Michelin starred restaurants Hostellerie de Plaisance in Saint Emilion, France and Amber, at the Landmark Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong.
In 2018 she created Roots, a French-Cantonese bistro, which in 2020 was selected by Tatler Magazine as one of the Best 20 Hong Kong Restaurants. That same year Stephanie received Tatler’s Rising Star Award.
HER VALUES
Her Food PhilosophyÂ
” I would describe my food philosophy as nostalgic since most of my vivid food experiences are tied with certain memories: how food makes you feel a certain way—feel joy, feel excitement, feel nourished or feel touched. A lot of my dishes stem from a memory that I’ve felt deeply from a food experience. When paired with the Cantonese and French principles of fresh ingredients and authenticity, I would say that makes up my food philosophy.“
Her Inspirations
” People inspire me—how different people can have entirely different approaches towards the same thing—sometimes that’s where new ideas spark. You get a mixing pot of everyone’s ideas and suddenly all the dots connect, leading to a new path.“ Â
A re-working of an iconic dish
Paul Bocuse had a long association with Maison Mumm, built over several decades, beginning in the 1960s.
Chef Stephanie decided to recreate a dish from a menu created by Bocuse featuring Mumm champagne in 1992: Noisettes de chevreuil, sauce poivrade, cardons à la moelle, marrons et purée de celery. Chef Stephanie paired her reinterpretation of this dish with the iconic Mumm Grand Cordon cuvée.
Recipe
Ingredients
- Venison loin 400g – cut by 2 pieces of 200g
- Chinese kale 100g
- Celeriac 1 piece roughly 800g (cut into 2cm cubes)
Sauce
- Shallots 2 pieces
- Chinese Liver Sausage 1 piece
- Cognac 100ml
- Cream 200ml
- Butter 50g
Celeriac purée
- Celeriac 1 piece roughly 800g (cut into 2cm cubes)
- Milk 250ml
- Cream 250ml
- Butter 50g
Steps
Celeriac purée
- Prepare the celeriac purée and sauce first, so it will be ready for reheating when serving.
- To make the celeriac purée, chop the celeriac into 2cm pieces and start cooking into a pot with the milk and cream mixture until soft.
- When the celeriac is cooked through, using a high blender, blend the celeriac, milk and cream until it becomes into a purée form. Add the butter into the hot blended celeriac purée gradually to thicken the purée.
- Set aside the purée until serving time.
Sauce
- To make the sauce, first dice the shallots, and cut the Chinese liver sausage into brunoise size. In a frying pan, begin to sauté the shallots and Chinese liver sausage until the fat from the sausage renders down. Add the cognac and flambé until it reduces to thicker syrup consistency. Add the cream and gradually whisk in the butter to thicken. Set aside the sauce and reheat when serving.
Chinese kale
- To prepare the Chinese kale, first peel the outer layer until you get to the smooth lighter green part. Prepare a pot of boiling water, and lightly blanche to partially cook the vegetable. Immediately put into ice water after blaching to stop the cooking and to preserve the green colour of the vegetable. Set aside to sauté when serving.
- All the mise en place is now ready and instructions below to serve.
Presentation
- Start searing the venison loin with butter, roughly 3-4 minutes on each side to arrive at medium rare/medium cooking. Set aside the venison to rest for 5 minutes and meanwhile start reheating the sauce, purée and sautéing the kale to plate.
- Plate one spoon of purée, set the kale on the bottom, with venison laying on top of the kale and then spoon the sauce over the venison.
Roots – The restaurant
What was your ambition when you created Roots?
I wanted to create a consistent space where I could continue creating something new but also provide a haven for guests to feel at ease and at home, like they would at my home.
Could you describe the Roots philosophy in three words?
Nostalgia, East meets West, Authenticity
Why did you choose Roots as the name for your restaurant?
The name originated from the raw ingredients—root vegetables. It was about how something as humble as the onion or carrot could surprise you. But it also evolved into a deeper meaning of paying respects to my roots—my history, my culture and traditions within my culture. It’s always the ‘roots’ that ground you and give you a sense of belonging.